The best thing to do is probably look at a bunch of designs, decide what you like and don't like about them, and cobble together something of your own that uses the best stuff from the others and leaves out the bad stuff. I think you could arrange a few pulleys and belts to get about a 30-50:1 reduction that would provide high precision motion and either completely prevent bed drop or at least slow it down to the point that it doesn't matter. If you've been looking at my blog you may have seen my one attempt (so far) to make a cheaper worm gear drive that was a failure. The worm gear drive I used is a pretty expensive part. I have recently acquired more t-slot from a scrap yard that has flat surfaces, so we know that type of stuff is available, and wouldn't require milling channels for the linear guides. In UMMD the Z axis guide rails sit in milled channels in the t-slot because the t-slot I used has concave surfaces. I do recommend milling the ends of the frame pieces so you can avoid having to use a lot of angle brackets by screwing the frame members directly to each other. The rectangular tubes I used for the XY stage don't have to be milled at all, and if you're not to picky about how it looks, you could just cut the pieces with a hack saw and call them done. Most of the milling I did was because it was a little neater and I had easy access to milling machines. It wouldn't be entirely necessary to mill many of the parts. Though the U shaped bed brace and the belt driven Z does seem like an absolute win. Start with the confirmed designs then move on to testing stuff myself. but that also still seems like something that I should do later. Though if I could convert as much as possible to 3d Printed parts and still use a belt driven design on the Z that would be cool. So look like it might be best to implement that after building something like the D-Bot / HEVO.
I would love to create a shorter cube form factor with a belt driven Z axis, but I see i would have to mill quite a bit of parts and use far more expensive parts. That is funny you say that because I was on his blog all night last night and fell in love with the belt driven Z axis.ĭidn't even realize he was on here until a little bit ago when i was looking around and saw his thread and thought wow I was just drooling over htis last night! "My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage" Let me know what you think and any suggestions. I would like a heavy duty build that will last.Īnything that I didn't mention here that I should look into? if not out of these two, the upgraded D-Bot and Hypercube Evolution which would you go with and why? Do you know something I dont and is there finally a ETA on the Voron 2 BOM? etc. Would be cool if it could be easily enclosed but i guess its not technically necessary. That being said, I would really like to make a 300Y x 300X x 300Z+/. but the chance of the BOM coming out for it is who knows when. Finally everybody seems to be raving about the Voron 2, maybe once the BOM is released i will definitely consider it, it seems to fit my criteria perfectly, looks really nice, enclosed, linear rails, etc.
#VORON VS HYPERCUBE MODS#
Next I was pretty interested in the D-Bot / Re-D-Bot / J-Bot (but with upgrades, z-axis wheels on all four corners, 1sPiRe's mods from thingiverse, that makes it way nicer and modern and supports a 300x300 build plate)īut the thing about the D-Bot is i am not sure that v slot wheels are honestly that much better, I know i could probably do a linear rail upgrade, or similar but the fact that there is no sleek way to enclose a D-Bot is also kind of a turn off. I was pretty much dead set on a Hypercube Evolution, then eventually kind of turned off by the Linear Rods. I would like to build a nice CoreXY printer.
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